The Enduring Appeal of Cask Ale: A Tradition Under Siege
First of a two part series about the future of cask beer.
In the landscape of British pubs, the beer most commonly found flowing from the taps has undergone significant changes since the 1960s. Today, the majority of what we drink in our local pubs is filtered, pasteurised, and served from pressurised kegs with an added dose of carbon dioxide. This "kegged" beer, as it’s known, boasts a long shelf life and consistent taste, making it a reliable choice for publicans and patrons alike.
But alongside this modern staple exists a brewing tradition that remains fiercely beloved by its enthusiasts: cask ale. Unlike its kegged counterpart, cask ale is unfiltered and unpasteurised, retaining live yeast that allows the beer to mature and develop its character in the pub’s cellar. The final result depends on the skill of the pub’s cellarman, who must carefully nurture the beer to ensure it’s in perfect condition when it reaches your glass.
For those who dismiss real ale as warm, flat, and unpleasant and tasting of dead badger it’s likely they’ve encountered it in a pub where these essential skills are lacking. However, in the hands of a knowledgeable and passionate licensee, cask ale offers a depth and subtlety unmatched by any other beer.
Yet, this traditional craft is increasingly overlooked by global brewers. Just last month, Marston’s, the UK’s largest cask ale producer, sold its stake in a joint venture with Carlsberg, with the latter referring to cask ale as a mere “distraction” from its core business of running pubs. Meanwhile, Molson Coors, apart from churning out Doom Bar, shows little interest in cask ale, mirroring the general indifference of multinational corporations towards this time-honoured brewing method.
In an era dominated by mass-produced beer, the future of cask ale is not uncertain as generation Z come to the rescue. Standby for the next Innfill article ‘’the future of beer in cask’’. A story of the artistry and tradition behind every pint, remaining an irreplaceable part of Britain’s brewing heritage.
This article is attributed to Pete Brown. A beer writer and Author.